LME49710
Stereo Preamplifier
This
is a project that started many years ago as a headphone amplifier. It
was designed around two NE5534 opamps (which were
considered
reasonable at the time) and as I remember, it never got much use as it
was one of those projects that I thought I needed but really didn't.
Anyway, I recently found it again (in my parents loft!) and decided to
put it into service, this time as a preamplifier to go between my PC
and power amplifier
I changed a couple of
resistor values slightly but other than that it remains pretty much the
same. Now though, the old 5534's have been replaced with more modern and superior LME49710 opamps which are pin for
pin compatible.
I came upon these after upgrading my PC with an ASUS sound card that
had a plugable output op amp. I swapped the original NE5532 for an
LM4562
dual device, and being impressed with
it's quality, decided to search for the single version. The LME49710
was the result of that search
The
preamplifier circuit is standard text book stuff and completely DC
coupled from input to output. To quote Peter Walker of Quad, an
amplifier should be a piece of wire with gain, and I reasoned anyway
that most sources will have an output capacitor and most
power amplifiers (including mine) will have an input capacitor, so no
problem. Volume control potentiometers can produce noise when there is
DC present on their wipers, but as there is no DC component at the
input or output, this too is not an issue. So we're good to go with our
amplifying wire!
In
the diagram above I show the volume control as being a 10K linear pot
rather than a logarithmic type which are more usually used for audio.
The reason for this is that it was the only pot
I had available during testing, but actually, I found it to behave
exactly the way I would want a volume control to work, very smooth and
not at all 'odd', so I left it in. Also, dual linear pots are supposed
to
track more accurately than logarithmic ones, so that could be an
advantage. If you're horrified by the thought of a linear volume
control then use a logarithmic pot. I probably could have used a better
quality
pot as well, but this would have cost more than the rest of the preamp
put together!
The board was built using a method us
radio hams used to call 'Scruffy
Construction'. I think the photo is self explanatory. This does have
some advantages though, one being that it's very easy to design the
layout, with most of the board consisting of the earth plane. The
finished result can look pretty good, but it does take skill with a
soldering iron. Basically, with the copper side facing up, the circuit
is drawn onto the board and 1mm holes are drilled (that's the smallest
drill bit B&Q sold at the time!) where you want the component
legs
to go
through. Where there is an earth connection, the leg can just be
soldered directly to the copper. After drilling, the copper side can be
spayed with clear
lacquer to prevent it from tarnishing. Just scrape the lacquer away
from around the holes when it's time to solder
When I started doing initial tests on this circuit with the NE5534 opamps installed, I found that it became unstable when being fed by a long input cable (5 metres) from my computer located in another room. This occurred when the volume control was advanced beyond half way, causing a weired popping sound. With the LME49710 op amps fitted, it's completely stable. I came across an article which may have the explanation for this, stating that some opamps are unstable at, or near to, unity gain, so my thinking is that as this preamp operates at a gain of just 4.7 (Rf/Ra) maybe this is low enough to cause problems under certain conditions. Checking the NE5534 data sheet confirms that it becomes unstable at gains of 3 or below, unless external compensation is applied. All this is of little importance here as the LME49710 is unity gain stable and behaves extremely well under all conditions in this circuit The
position of the mains transformer is important if located near to the
electronics. At first I mounted the transformer in the normal
upright position. This caused a slight hum to be induced into the
audio and was not acceptable. After trial and error I found the best
position was to mount it horizontally (see photo above). This
completely
eliminates any hum, even when listening on headphones. These small
laminated transformers are not really the best choice here. As
mentioned, they do radiate, but they can also get quite hot and depending
on how they are mounted, can buzz mechanically. Input/output cabling must be
kept away from the transformer too.
I used this enclosure because I aquired it free (and nice enclosures
have to have something built in them right?), but in hindsight I should
have followed good hi-fi practice and used the more expensive option of
a toroidal transformer mounted in a separate box
I started out by stating that this was originally a headphone amplifier project, and although it now performs the task of a preamp, the output is fed through a 1/4 inch jack socket via its switched contacts, so it still maintains its function as a high quality headphone amp. The LME49710 op amps seem to be well up to the job, driving my low impedance Sennheisers without any problem. Overall I am very happy with the sound quality, bearing in mind you can throw vast amounts of money at these simple designs to milk them for everything they've got. Know how much you wish to spend and stick to it! The finished preamplifier
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